The short answer: The word “reinstallation” can refer to three procedures of very different severity, and even repair shops sometimes confuse them. The gentlest option is reinstalling the current version through Windows Update—Microsoft says that it “reinstalls the current version of Windows without affecting your files, apps, and settings.” Resetting the PC with “Keep my files” preserves data but removes applications. A clean installation removes personal files, apps, device manufacturer customisations, and changes made in Settings. Before clicking anything, secure three things: a backup, your BitLocker recovery key, and access to your Microsoft account. Without the key, you will be unable to access most Windows RE tools.
Why one word describes three different procedures
The situation is usually the same: the computer starts misbehaving, someone says, “It needs a reinstall,” and you suddenly remember that it contains your photos, accounts, saved passwords, and licences for software you bought five years ago.
The problem is that “reinstallation” is not a single operation. Microsoft offers a wide range of recovery options—from troubleshooters and removing a single update to System Restore, restore points, resetting the PC, and installing Windows from external media. Each has a different effect on your data. In a panic, that distinction is precisely what people tend to overlook.
This article assumes that you have already decided to proceed. If you are still considering whether an older computer is worth repairing or should simply be replaced, see our separate guide on whether to reinstall, repair, or discard it. If Windows does not start at all and is stuck in Automatic Repair, do not begin with reinstallation—rescue the contents of the drive first.
Three options and what each one preserves
| Option | What remains | What is removed | When it makes sense |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reinstall Windows through Windows Update | files, applications, and settings | none of your content; the system files are replaced | the system starts but produces errors, crashes, or behaves unpredictably |
| Reset the PC with “Keep my files” | personal files | applications and their settings | the system is more severely damaged, but the data on the drive is intact |
| Clean installation from installation media | nothing on the system partition | personal files, applications, manufacturer customisations, and changes made in Settings | the other options have failed or the drive is being replaced |
The first option is the one most people do not know about. Under Settings → System → Recovery, Windows offers Reinstall now, about which Microsoft makes one very specific statement: “This action reinstalls the current version without affecting your files, apps, or settings.” The system files are downloaded and installed again, while your content remains in place. For a damaged system that can still start, this should be the first option you try—not the last.
The second option is resetting the PC. Microsoft describes it as a Windows reinstallation during which “you can choose whether to keep your personal files or remove everything.” Beware of a common misunderstanding: Keep my files does not mean that nothing will be lost. Applications are always removed.
The third option has one important consequence that many people do not expect. According to Microsoft, a clean installation “removes all of the following items: personal files, apps, device manufacturer customisations, and any changes made in Settings.” It therefore removes not only your data and programs, but also everything supplied with the computer from the factory, including presets, companion tools, and manufacturer utilities. Microsoft itself describes a clean installation as “an advanced option” and recommends it only for users who are comfortable making these changes.
Installation media offers three easily confused options
When you run Windows Setup from a prepared USB drive, you do not get just one choice. You get three, and their names are similar enough to make selecting the wrong one surprisingly easy:
- Keep personal files and apps — preserves personal data, applications, and settings. This is known as an in-place upgrade and is the gentlest option available from installation media.
- Keep personal files only — preserves personal data and settings but removes all applications.
- Keep nothing — removes all personal data, settings, and applications.
The difference between the first two is a single word in the list—and several hours spent reinstalling software. Read your selection twice before continuing.
Checklist before the first click
Microsoft openly warns that “some recovery options can result in data loss” and recommends backing up important files and enabling Windows Backup under Settings → Accounts → Windows backup, which saves applications and settings. Treat that as the minimum, not as a complete plan. Before making any changes, work through this checklist:
- A complete backup on a separate storage device, not merely cloud synchronisation. Our guide to backing up Windows 11 explains what belongs where and what kind of backup routine covers this situation.
- Your BitLocker recovery key, printed or stored somewhere outside the computer.
- A digital licence linked to your Microsoft account, plus access to that account, including its second authentication factor.
- Your Windows edition identified—it must match the digital licence.
- A list of programs, licence keys, and login details you will need when reinstalling. Include email accounts, VPN credentials, certificates for your datová schránka, and backup codes for your password manager.
- Drivers for the exact computer model from the manufacturer’s website, downloaded to the same USB drive in advance. A clean installation removes the manufacturer’s customisations, and it is difficult to find a missing function-key or power-management utility on a computer that does not yet have working Wi-Fi.
- An installation USB drive prepared in advance on another working computer.
BitLocker: the obstacle people discover too late
This is the most common reason a reinstallation stops halfway through. Microsoft puts it plainly: “If BitLocker is enabled on your device, you’ll need your BitLocker recovery key to access most recovery options from WinRE.” Without the key, you cannot access most recovery-environment tools, regardless of whether you know the account password.
Microsoft also warns that Windows RE will request the recovery key when you start a “Remove everything” reset on a device protected by TPM with a PIN or by a password for the operating-system drive.
If you can still access the system and are preparing for planned hardware or firmware work, there is a more elegant approach. Microsoft says: “For planned scenarios, such as a known hardware or firmware upgrades, initiating recovery can be avoided by temporarily suspending BitLocker protection.” Suspending protection leaves the drive fully encrypted. Once the work is complete, protection resumes and the key is resealed without anyone having to enter it manually.
According to Microsoft, the key can be stored in a Microsoft account, in Microsoft Entra ID or AD DS for company-managed computers, in a text file, or as a printout. For a home computer that is not joined to a domain, storing it in the Microsoft account is the recommended option. If the key cannot be found and the drive is already locked, see BitLocker: the drive cannot be unlocked.
Licensing and activation: what reinstallation cannot solve
Two conditions apply to a Windows licence, both stated directly by Microsoft: “The edition of Windows being reinstalled must match your digital license” and “Windows must be activated after it’s reinstalled.” During a clean installation, you can select I don’t have a product key and activate Windows after connecting to the internet. That is why you should link the digital licence to your Microsoft account beforehand, not after the computer reports that Windows is not activated.
Reinstallation does not solve third-party software licensing at all. Office suites, accounting software, CAD tools, photo editors, and plug-ins all have their own transfer rules. Make a list while the computer is still running. Retrieving licence keys from a computer that no longer starts is considerably more difficult.
Three pitfalls that matter right now
Mandatory Microsoft account and internet connection. The Windows 11 specifications list these as requirements: “Windows 11 Pro for personal use and Windows 11 Home require internet connectivity and a Microsoft account during initial device setup.” Once you reach the initial setup screen, thinking about it will not get you past the requirement.
The ten-day rollback window. According to Microsoft, the option to return to the previous version of Windows is available “for 10 days after upgrading.” If you discover an incompatibility three weeks after upgrading to Windows 11, you will no longer find this option in the menu.
Manufacturer customisations do not return. A clean installation explicitly lists them among the items it removes. Afterwards, the computer may be “cleaner” than the customer expected—with no battery-management utility, display profile, or fan control.
Moving from Windows 10 to 11 on an older computer
This is now a more common job than a conventional reinstallation, for a simple reason: Microsoft states in its lifecycle documentation that “Windows 10 will reach end of support on October 14, 2025” and that version 22H2 was “the final version of Windows 10.”
Before installing Windows 11 on an older computer, check the minimum requirements. Microsoft lists them as a “1 gigahertz (GHz) or faster with 2 or more cores on a compatible 64-bit processor or System on a Chip (SoC),” “4 gigabytes (GB)” of memory, a “64 GB or larger storage device,” “Trusted Platform Module (TPM) version 2.0,” and “UEFI, Secure Boot capable” firmware. The graphics hardware must support DirectX 12 with a WDDM 2.0 driver.
TPM 2.0 and Secure Boot are the most common stumbling blocks—and often only because they are disabled in UEFI, not because the computer lacks them. We explain how to check this in a separate article about TPM 2.0 and Windows 11.
If you would rather not touch the settings yourself, we cover it under Windows reinstallation and setup. A related step is setting up data backup.
When reinstallation is not the solution
There is one situation in which reinstallation is the most expensive option possible: when the storage device is failing. Installation writes tens of gigabytes to the drive, and on a failing SSD or HDD, this can destroy precisely the data that was still readable.
You can identify the problem beforehand. For the 0x7B error (INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE), Microsoft lists causes including “changes to the storage controller mode or settings in the BIOS,” “using a different storage controller than the one that was used when Windows was installed,” and “a faulty motherboard or storage controller, or faulty hardware.” It also draws an important line: if the operating-system drive does not appear at all in the diskpart overview, “you’ll have to engage the OEM or virtualization manufacturer.” That is no longer a situation for a Windows installation USB drive.
The practical rule is simple: check the drive’s condition before installing anything new on the computer. Our guide Is your SSD dying? describes the warning signs a failing SSD may show before it stops working. If the drive reports errors or keeps disappearing from the system, reverse the order: back up or recover the data first, install a new drive second, and only then install Windows on it.
What we do at our repair shop in Brno
Reinstallation is not merely a matter of launching Windows Setup. The goal is to ensure that the computer still has its data, licences, email, and drivers afterwards—and to verify beforehand that the drive can survive the process.
In practice, this means checking the storage device, including its SMART data; choosing the least disruptive of the options described above; backing up the data to our storage media; verifying the BitLocker recovery key and Windows edition; installing drivers for the exact computer model; and restoring ordinary user data.
According to the Servis PC Brno price list, diagnostics cost approximately CZK 600 if no repair is carried out. Reinstalling Windows, including drivers, updates, and basic configuration, starts at approximately CZK 1,500. Reinstallation with backup and restoration of ordinary data starts at approximately CZK 2,400. A separate complete backup of up to 50 GB starts at approximately CZK 1,200, while an SSD upgrade with system installation and data transfer starts at approximately CZK 3,000 plus the cost of the drive. Licences and more complex data recovery are charged separately. The exact price always depends on the model and scope of work, and we will confirm it after diagnostics.
One final sentence, because this mistake occurs more often than any other: the most expensive reinstallation error does not happen during installation, but five minutes beforehand—when someone confirms “Remove everything” and only then remembers where the last four years of photos were stored.
Order online: Windows reinstallation — tell us the model and what happens, and we will come back with the next step.
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Where to find us
We are a PC and laptop repair shop in Brno-Židenice: diagnostics and repairs of computers and laptops, data recovery from drives, and out-of-warranty Apple repairs (iPhone 12 and newer, MacBook, iPad).
Viniční 3587/216, 615 00 Brno-Židenice, Czech Republic Mon–Fri 10:00–16:00
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We put the repair price in writing after diagnostics and carry on only once you agree.